Sunday, March 27, 2011

blogger calls food & wine out for calling a spade a clover

An open letter to Food & Wine

To editor:

Since you do not publish letters to the editor, I thought I would use this forum to make a simple albeit impassioned clarification. A grilled cheese sandwich requires two elements being, in order of import, cheese & bread. Other things certainly come in to play such as what bread, what cheese, and other important additions. Namely butter.

You got these elements right. Almost. Thank you, Food & Wine, for including lots and lots of butter in your April 2011 recipe for "The New American Grilled Cheese." You also called for extra-sharp cheddar (a great melter), monterey jack (a great counterpoint) and sourdough bread. The directions are spot on. These are the three things that make a great sandwich, a classic. These ingredients aren't a secret, but the perfect combination makes for just that: perfection.

So how is it New American, F&W? I'm not going to even start to try to begin to define New American, but this is a rustic recipe. Period.

And then there's the real point of confusion: andouille sausage? I don't mean to say it's a garnish or a fat component in the pan, F&W published a recipe for the New American Grilled Cheese with sausage. They meant to say "The New American Sausage Sandwich with Cheese." Get it right.

Importantly, it is not to say that I would not eat this sandwich. The saturated fat content must be through the roof therefore I want it all the time. Just don't mess with my grilled cheese. I need it.

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